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The windowless basement is the most bustling part of the restaurant. It holds a hot kitchen, a large semi-private nook and tables packed more densely than anywhere else.Cold food includes three types of oysters; a very simple salmon sashimi with marinated fennel; and a neat puck of Wagyu tartare topped with quail egg yolk. Then there are various sushi rolls and sashimi, prepared by one of three on-site sushi masters (that’s an actual qualification).

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